Bethlehem

Another early morning! It apparently rained quite a bit last night, as the deck was wet when we headed to breakfast. We ate a quick meal and then headed out for the day. Our drive took us through some of the Gaza area countryside and then into Bethlehem.

We began this morning at the Shepherd’s Fields, which we could not stay at long because another group was hurrying in to have mass. This did give us some time to explore some of the surrounding excavations, including other caves that look more natural and, perhaps, more like ones the shepherds might have been in when the angel announced the birth of Jesus.

There was, of course, time for shopping Bethlehem. Prices have really gone up, even since I was here two years ago. I suspect that has a lot to do with the economy of the city, which has suffered in the years since “the wall” was put up, cutting Bethlehem off from Jerusalem. The store we go to is run by one of the few remaining Christian families in Bethlehem.

Next we went to the Church of the Nativity, the traditional location of Jesus’ birth. As with all such things, this may or may not be the place, but it’s the place where we remember it. The church was surprisingly quiet, and we were able to go down into the grotto in under 30 minutes. It doesn’t look much like a birthplace, and it’s amazing the way people will push you out of the way to see a star set into the floor. I was pushed a couple of times as I tried to take pictures. No one was interested when the baby was born, but now everyone wants to see a star on the floor. The Church of the Nativity is the oldest church in the Holy Land, and the one in the worst repair. But this year, there were scaffolding up everywhere as they are seeking to repair, restore and keep the church for future generations.

After lunch, we drove through the checkpoint between Palestinian territory and Israeli territory and headed toward Jerusalem. Going through the checkpoint can be a tense time, as you’re never sure if the authorities will want to board the bus or not. We weren’t boarded this time, thankfully, which sped our journey to the Garden Tomb. The Garden Tomb is one of my favorite places in Jerusalem, as, even though it has a late discovery date, it “feels” more authentic as a location for Calvary and the empty tomb. We shared Holy Communion there, and celebrated the fact that “He is not here, he is risen!”

Our final stop for the day was St. Peter in Gallicantu, the traditional location of Caiaphas’ house, where Jesus was taken for trial before the high priest after his arrest in Gethsemane. We went down into the “dungeon” (it would have been most likely a semi-wet cistern at the time) and we contemplated Jesus being there in the dark, knowing what the next few hours would bring. We remembered in the courtyard Peter’s denials of Jesus, and we looked at the first century steps that lead from the Kidron Valley into the high priest’s house, very likely the steps Jesus was led up…all before he gave his life for our sin, for our salvation, so that we could live with him.

On the way back to the ship, we passed through the Valley of Elah, where David met a big guy named Goliath. Of course, they only met once. Goliath sort of lost his head over that. When we arrived back at the ship, we laughed and shared and celebrated around the table. Only a few more days left on this epic journey. It’s hard to believe. Tonight, we sail for Haifa and tomorrow we will be in the Galilee.